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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.